Why & When You Need an Oil Change
Before you get your hands Change Your Own Oil, it’s crucial to understand the purpose of what you’re doing. A little knowledge goes a long way.
The Lifeblood of Your Engine
Your Change Your Own Oil engine is a complex machine with hundreds of moving parts working in harmony at incredible speeds. Without lubrication, the metal-on-metal friction would generate immense heat, causing the parts to weld together and leading to catastrophic failure. Engine oil is the lifeblood that prevents this.
Oil serves three primary functions:
Lubrication: It creates a thin film between moving parts, reducing friction and wear.
Cooling: It draws heat away from the engine, preventing overheating.
Cleaning: It picks up dirt, sludge, and metal Change Your Own Oil, holding them in suspension and keeping the engine clean.
Over time, the oil’s viscosity breaks down, and it becomes saturated with contaminants, losing its ability to perform these vital functions. This is why regular oil changes are non-negotiable for engine health.
How Often Should You Change It?
The old rule of Change Your Own Oil is a marketing leftover from decades ago. Modern cars and oils have made this rule largely obsolete.
Conventional Oil: If your car uses conventional (petroleum-based) oil, you’ll generally need to change it every 5,000 to 8,000 kilometers (or every 6 months).
Synthetic Oil: Most modern Change Your Own Oil are designed to run on synthetic oil, which is engineered to last longer and perform better under extreme conditions. For full-synthetic, the interval can be 10,000 to 20,000 kilometers (or once a year).
Consult Your Manual: The best and most accurate advice will always be in your car’s owner’s manual. It will specify the exact type of oil and filter, as well as the manufacturer’s recommended service intervals based on your driving habits.
What You’ll Need for a DIY Change Your Own Oil
You can’t start a mission without the right Change Your Own Oil. A well-stocked toolkit will make the job simple and efficient. For a DIY oil change Vancouver, you’ll have no trouble finding these supplies at a variety of local shops.
Your Essential Toolkit & Supplies
Your Car’s Manual: This is your bible. It will tell you the exact size of your drain plug, the oil viscosity, and the required amount of oil.
Fresh Engine Oil: Buy the oil type and viscosity specified in your manual. Don’t guess. Check out local car parts stores Vancouver has to offer, like Lordco, Bumper to Change Your Own Oil, or Vancouver Auto Parts, or order from online retailers like Parts Avatar for good deals.
A New Oil Filter: Get the correct oil filter for your vehicle’s make and model.
An Oil Filter Wrench: These come in different shapes and sizes. An adjustable “claw” type or a band wrench usually works for most cars.
A Socket Wrench & Correct Socket: You’ll need this to remove the drain plug.
A Drain Pan: This is a wide, flat pan to catch the old oil. A 10-quart capacity is a safe bet for most cars. Look for one with an integrated spout for easy pouring.
Funnel: A simple funnel to pour in the new oil without Change Your Own Oil.
Safety Glasses: To protect your eyes from splashes.
Nitrile Gloves: To keep your hands clean.
Paper Towels or Rags: Lots of them, for cleaning up drips and spills.
Car Jack & Jack Stands: This is the single most important safety item. Never, ever work under a car supported only by a jack. Jack stands are inexpensive and crucial.
Wheel Chocks: To place behind a tire to prevent the Change Your Own Oil from rolling.
The Main Event: Your Step-by-Step Guide
With your supplies ready, you’re ready to tackle the job. Remember to stay patient and take your time.
How to Change Your Car Oil in BC
Preparation & Safety First
Warm Up the Engine: Drive the car for a few minutes to get the oil warm. Warm oil flows more easily, making it easier to drain.
Park on Level Ground: Ensure your vehicle is parked on a flat, level surface.
Engage the Parking Brake: Always put the parking Change Your Own Oil.
Use Wheel Chocks: Place chocks behind a tire that you are not jacking up (e.g., if you’re jacking up the front, put a chock behind a rear tire).
Jack and Secure: Locate your car’s designated jacking point (check your manual). Jack the car up and immediately place jack stands under a solid part of the frame. Slowly lower the car onto the stands. Give it a gentle shake to ensure it’s stable before you get under it.
Draining the Old Oil
Locate the Drain Plug: Slide under the Change Your Own Oil with your drain pan, socket wrench, and safety glasses. The drain plug is a large bolt on the bottom of the oil pan. It’s usually the only bolt on the pan.
Place your pan directly under the plug.
Remove the Plug: Using your wrench, turn the plug counter-clockwise to loosen it. As you get close to unscrewing it all the way, quickly move the pan forward and be ready for the oil to gush out. You’ll get some oil on your gloves, but with practice, you can minimize it.
Let it Drain: Let the oil drain Change Your Own Oil. This can take 15 to 20 minutes. While it’s draining, you can move on to the next step.
Replacing the Oil Filter
Locate the Old Filter: The oil filter is a canister-shaped part that is typically close to the oil pan or on the side of the engine.
Remove the Old Filter: Use your oil filter wrench to turn the filter counter-clockwise. Be aware that the filter will also have a small amount of oil in it, so be prepared with a rag and your drain pan.
Prepare the New Filter: Before screwing on the new filter, take a little bit of the new oil and lubricate the rubber gasket on the top of the new filter. This creates a better Change Your Own Oil.
Install the New Filter: Screw the new filter on by hand until it is snug. Give it about a half to three-quarters of a turn more with the wrench, but do not overtighten it.
Add the New Oil
Replace the Drain Plug: Once all the old oil has drained, wipe down the area and screw the drain plug back in. Tighten it securely, but don’t overtighten.
Add New Oil: Open your hood, locate the oil Change Your Own Oil (usually has a picture of an oil can on it), and place your funnel inside. Pour in the new oil, starting with a little less than the amount specified in your manual.
Final Checks
Check the Level: After adding the oil, pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it, and pull it out again. The oil level should be between the “Min” and “Max” marks. Add more if needed.
Start the Engine: Run the engine for about 30 seconds. The oil pressure light on your dashboard will likely turn off.
Check for Leaks: Shut off the engine and Change Your Own Oil inspect the oil filter and drain plug for any leaks.
Final Dipstick Check: Wait about 5 minutes for the oil to settle and do a final dipstick check.
The Vancouver-Specific Wrap-Up
Now that the job is done, you’re not finished yet. As a responsible Vancouver resident, you need to dispose of your used oil properly.
Disposal & Local Tips for a Vancouverite
Where to Dispose of Used Motor Oil Vancouver: Never pour used Change Your Own Oil down the drain or into the garbage. It’s a hazardous waste that can severely pollute our environment. Thankfully, British Columbia has an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) program managed by Interchange Recycling.
Recycling Depots: Many automotive service centers, retailers (like the shops you bought your oil from), and recycling depots are designated drop-off locations for used motor oil, filters, and containers. You can use the Interchange Recycling website to find a location near you.
Vancouver Landfill and Recycling Depot: The Vancouver Landfill in Delta is a designated site for used motor oil disposal. They accept a maximum of 15 litres of used oil and 3 filters per person per day.
The Cost-Saving Breakdown: A professional oil change at a shop can range from $60 for a conventional oil change to Change Your Own Oil for full-synthetic. By doing it yourself, you’ll only pay for the oil and filter, which typically costs. You’ve just saved a minimum of $20-60 on your very first job, and the tools you bought will last a lifetime.
